Welcome to the fifth season of the Troubleshooting Innovation podcast. Joanie Spencer, editor-in-chief for Commercial Baking, talks with Rebecca Abel, owner of D’Vine Cookies in Taylor, MI. They’re looking at cookie production through the lens of an entrepreneur, from starting a bakery to moving into the first big facility to strategic growth into the future. Sponsored by the National Honey Board.

Our first episode explores the early days of D’Vine and a young entrepreneur’s choice to manufacture cookies.

Learn more about this season here, and listen to Troubleshooting Innovation on AppleSpotifyGoogle and Stitcher.

 

Joanie Spencer: Welcome to Troubleshooting Innovation. In this episode, we’re taking a look at the early days of D’Vine and a young entrepreneur’s choice to manufacture cookies. Hi, Rebecca, thanks for joining me.

Rebecca Abel: Thank you, Joanie.

Spencer: I am really excited for this season of Troubleshooting Innovation, because I’ve gotten to know you over the past few months. And I just love your story, and I think you’ve got a lot to share with the industry and sort of getting back to the roots for commercial cookie production. I guess the first thing that I want to talk to you about is just hearing the story of how D’Vine Cookies came to be. It’s really interesting to me, because you didn’t start out as a baker. Until D’Vine what were your areas of expertise? And what led you to baking?

Abel: Well, I’ve always been an entrepreneur, I can remember even as a child starting little businesses, and knowing that someday I wanted to create a really big business. Most of my career has been as a financial planner, money manager. And I continued to do that, and built a business around that. I grew that to a certain level that I am sustaining that and really wanted a new challenge. I’ve always loved eating desserts, but have never been a baker. About five years ago, I started seeing cookies really trending. I just had this deep knowing that cookies was something that I should pursue. I had tried some other business ventures along the way and some other foods, but cookies really resonated with me. And that kind of was the beginning of D’Vine.

Spencer: That is so awesome. At what point did that entrepreneurial bug bite? You said that you kind of looked at some other things and you got into food a little bit. What were some of those businesses that you considered? And how did you land on cookies?

Abel: About 10 years ago, I had an idea for a vegetable infused mac and cheese. I started doing R&D for that and creating a product and just wasn’t feeling that strong intuition that this is the right thing to move forward. I dabble in a lot of different ideas in my head and try to put something together. But with cookies, I was in New York City and saw a huge line down the block for a well-known bakery that I was standing in the line of. During that time, I just had this feeling that you know what, MI (where I’m from and live) needs something like this. So I started more on the retail route thinking, we need a store like this, we don’t have something like this in our area. That put the idea in my head and then I would start dismissing it because again, I’m not a baker. I didn’t even have a cookie sheet to be honest. I am not the mom that bakes cookies, but I love eating cookies. I knew that cookies were accessible enough that I could quickly learn and study different recipes to learn how to bake. I’m a fast learner, and I love learning and challenging myself. The idea for cookies really came from standing in a line for what I thought was a really amazing cookie. And I thought to myself, what if I took this cookie and made it into 40 different flavors and stuffed it and topped it and did all sorts of wacky things with it. I think that this could be an offshoot of a good cookie.

Spencer: I love this because most bakers that I talk you, had this passion and this love for baking, that they turned into a business. You have a passion and a love for business that you turned into baking.

Abel: Definitely, I’ve always loved business. I knew as a child, I wanted to create a big company, I just didn’t know what. I have started a lot of little companies and ventures along the way and have my other businesses as well still. But, my passion was for entrepreneurship and I have a passion for eating the desserts. It surprised everyone I knew when I told them that I was going to create a national cookie company. It was almost humorous to some of my friends and family.

Spencer: Okay, I want to sort of walk through the startup because I think this is just incredibly fascinating. Starting a business, you have to have the business plan in place, you have to know what the product is that you’re going to sell, you’ve to secure that financing. How did all of these pieces come together? How did you come up with the concept for the product? What sort of research did you do to try to figure out what that cookie was going to be? And how many flavors you were going to have? How did the entrepreneurialism and your business and finance mindset, how did they come together to create a product that you had no experience making?

Abel: It was September of 2017 and this really strong intuition came over me that cookies was going to be my next thing. A month before I had been in New York, like I said, stood in this line for a really good cookie. It was this fall day that I just had this gut feeling. I literally went to the store that afternoon, printed about ten different chocolate chip cookie recipes, and just started baking. And thought to myself, let me see what I can come up with. There wasn’t this well thought out plan before I started this initial R&D. I thought, let me see if I can come up with some really good cookies in this of style of tons of chocolate and really thick cookie. I knew once I had a base down, I was going to expand it. In my head, I needed to come up with a concept. Then I was going to put it on steroids with making all these different luxurious flavors. I like over the top indulgent desserts. From there, I spent about two weeks coming up with recipes and let things happen organically. I wasn’t sure what my plan was going to be. Obviously, I had to have a product to start with. I made a bunch of cookies, about ten different options, and then sampled them with friends and family. I had my personal favorite. Some people are wine connoisseurs and have a talent for really spotting great wines. For me, it’s with desserts. I knew, when I landed on my recipe, and I used multiple recipes and combined elements. So it was my own recipe I just had to learn about how this ingredient affected that ingredient, different types of flour and sample a bunch of different types of chocolates. I came up with my recipe, and then started coming up with different combinations. I ordered literally every type of chocolate on the market. Whether it was white chocolate or caramel, everything that you could possibly put in a cookie. And then just started coming up with different combinations and made about five different products. After I had my cookie makeup, I decided I was gonna launch really small. I was going to build a Shopify website and it on Facebook for friends and family. And just start small to see if anybody would buy these cookies. I didn’t start with the storefront or anything like that. Now in November of 2017, I was building my Shopify website. I had about five different flavors that I had created with a really over the top, decadent variations of that chocolate chip cookie, and just launched it to put it out there. I hadn’t spent much money, but I figured I had to prove the concept and see if people liked this cookie that I liked. Things took off instantly. I was going into December, gift giving season, recieved some business from different gifting needs that month. It was a great start. Obviously, there was a lot more that went into it, I had to find a production spot. I rented some space in a church kitchen, and I put an ad on Nextdoor in my neighborhood. I found four different women that wanted to come in and do some baking. I kept it really simple initially, didn’t overthink it and just launched and figured, “Okay, let’s just see how this goes!”

Spencer: Was that by design? Starting that small, and really taking those baby steps with making it for friends and family, and starting a website, putting it on Facebook, then going to running a kitchen, taking it to Nextdoor and getting a couple of people who wanted to help you out in their spare time. Was that by design from your business background? Or were you truly like, “Let’s just try this. All right, this is going well, let’s take it to the next level.” Did it happen organically or did you plan it this way?

Abel: I planned that I didn’t want to invest in something until I had proven my concept. I wasn’t going to build out a whole storefront and put a lot of money into this, until I could see that this was something somebody would pay money for. This decadent, really good cookie could least establish that people liked what I thought they would like. Obviously, my plan was never to have a small operation and just be working in a Church kitchen and making a couple 1000 cookies. The goal was to be something massive. But it was very intentional to start small, and at least put something out there. Then once I had the product that I knew people liked, I had a number of ideas in the background of how I would sell and market it. But I like I said, I didn’t want to start by spending a lot of money in this big build out. Especially not having ever been in a food business. One of my mottos to myself has always been to keep things simple. I’m keeping things simple in the case where I am just testing things out. It was more research that first quarter.

Spencer: Okay, I want to talk about that research. Because I’m imagining that you had to do a ton of research, not only in how to make the cookies. But also in what the market need was, and in putting together the business. Can you talk about what research you did to understand the consumer demand for cookies in Michigan? And then you said you had a plan to be a “national company” did you look at the market demand nationally, or what was your homework like?

Abel: I did do a lot of research. I did research on luxury cookies. At the time, there were a lot of cookies, and there’s always been a lot of cookies out there that are good cookies. But I didn’t see anything in the luxury category that was at the level that I wanted to be. I did a lot of internet research. I did research in terms of retail, because I wasn’t sure if I was going to be a retail brand or an online brand, I didn’t know what I was going to be. But I didn’t see a lot of competition in that overall luxury cookie space. That was the basis of what I was trying to create, was a cookie that was beautifully packaged, really intricate and very over the top and luxurious. The research definitely went a long way telling me I have something that there’s not a lot of other competition. That was where it started. I figured that let me at least create a product in that category. When I initially launched that first season, each cookie was wrapped in an individual ribbon. It was very over the top, and trying to be as luxury as I could make it.

Spencer: I can think of two brands that are really doing the luxury cookie well. But I think you’re right, it’s something relatively new in the US market to go over the top with cookies that are truly an experience.

Abel: I know some of these other companies now but at the time, this was 2017. One of them at least didn’t exist at the time. To me there were the long standing really large companies. But there wasn’t that front runner in the luxury industry. There wasn’t the Godiva chocolate of the cookie at the time.

Spencer: Yeah. We’re gonna sort of get into the whole journey and where you are now. But just reflecting on how you got started, are there things that when you look back you would do it exactly the same way? Are there things when you started the company that you would do differently now that you have a bit of hindsight.

Abel: Definitely things that I would keep the same and a lot that I would change. I went through an extreme learning curve. We literally started with measuring cups, because I didn’t know how production baking worked. So that first holiday season, we were making batches that were 20 cookies, with small mixers. Again, I didn’t want to invest in massive equipment, but I could have saved myself a lot of labour time that first season by just investing in a 20-qt. mixer right away. And realizing people use scales to measure ingredients. It was just part of my journey and it’s funny looking back into how I started. The other day I was looking at some of my original recipes and they had two cups of sugar and one cup of butter. Whereas now we’re at 45 pounds of this and much larger batches. But again, it provides comic relief for me looking at where I started and where we are now. It’s fun to look at. I like that I started small and didn’t invest right away in anything major until I could see that this could be a sustainable business. I think I’ve done okay. It’s mostly things that I feel good about the decisions I’ve made.

Spencer: Would you say that the business background you have, and having experience in business made you a little bit more fiscally conservative? So that you did exercise a lot of caution, as you started and really took those baby steps to, the thought process of “I’m not going to invest a lot of money until I really know how to bake?”

Abel: It was more that I understood the finance side of businesses, which was so important to me. You can have the very best product in the world, but if you don’t understand the numbers of it, what your costs are and lots of different pieces of the financial side, it’s going to be very tough go. Unless you know how to do that yourself, or you want to put a lot of money into somebody that can do that for you. I think that most of my decisions were business based. And obviously there was this dream behind it to build something really big. But to me, it was figuring out, let me launch a product. Then once it was launched, I was going to figure out what my marketing plan was. In the background, while I was working in this Church kitchen, I was looking into buying food trucks. I was looking into how to stand out on the internet. There was a lot going on in the background as well.

Spencer: You mentioned the storefront and considering retail truck. That is one of the questions that I have on the list. You and I have talked about this before. I will just never forget what you said. Because a lot of people don’t choose to go into manufacturing, especially women. Usually we sort of fall into it or experience it or discover that manufacturing and engineering is something that we were designed for. You made that conscious choice, to go the online route or the storefront route, or the food truck route. Why did you and how did you land on on manufacturing for your cookies, why not start out in a retail shop or on a food truck?

Abel: Well, I actually started out doing a little bit of everything. I was manufacturing, but on a really small scale. It wasn’t profitable in the beginning because I didn’t have the automated equipment. I knew in my head that once I proved the concept, that was one option to be a wholesaler to get things really systematic and manufacture and not go the retail route at all. But I did buy a food truck, I did have a small retail storefront, I did online and I started in wholesale. Once I proved my concept, I figured let me try all of these avenues and see what fits me best. I slowly crossed out online, I didn’t want to compete in that space. I’m not a social media person, and that’s really what it takes there. The food truck, I still do have two retail food trucks that do quite well. And we book a lot of events. But I could quickly see that my personality and where I wanted to go to scale really large, it was going to fit me best to do something that was very systematic and scientific. That came to the forefront, but I knew that was a few years away, because that I could see involved buying spending a lot of money on equipment. I still wasn’t ready after six months to go and invest, several hundreds of thousands of dollars in automated equipment to be able to really play in that space. It wasn’t that I just started right in manufacturing, I wanted to get there. But I needed to establish myself to be large enough to be able to go out and get the financing for that route.

Spencer: What did that process look like? At what point did you say to yourself, “This is going to be bigger than the food truck. It’s going to be bigger than just in my neighborhood and in my area. I can take this places and I’m going to have to start planning for investment in equipment.”? How did that sort of play out in your mind and in your business?

Abel: My first year, I bought the food truck. I put it out there and marketed it a bit. Things were going well and I had a small retail storefront in a an artisan market and the cookies were selling well. Everything I knew about financing, it’s much harder to come with just a concept versus coming with actual sales and revenue. I had to build up and try to sell as much as I could, in that small space with my food truck in the retail market and some online sales. That was what I focused on the first year, really hustling and trying to sell as much as possible. I started bringing on some wholesale accounts at local grocery stores. Although, I knew in the wholesale space, unless you’re manufacturing, it’s really not profitable. You can’t be making things by hand, at least not in the cookie world. It’s very difficult to be doing everything by hand and making enough money to be able to afford all the distribution and making sure the store can make their margin, everything is expensive. My plan was, after about a year, to start looking at what financing was available after I could show some revenue. That’s what I did. I went to a community organization after I had a year of decent numbers basically broke even my first year didn’t make or lose money, but I had decent sales. Then I went and started going for some financing to take the next step, and secured a loan. That loan actually was something that I used to build out a bigger retail space. After one year, I didn’t go right into manufacturing. I went and built out a decent sized retail space and needed to increase my sales because the loan that I got wasn’t enough to go out and buy the big equipment at that point. Then from there, I did a year in retail and started getting noticed. I was approached by a few companies that wanted me to private label products for them. So they had my cookies and it came organically that I was approached, I didn’t put myself out there. In my head, even though I wasn’t going this manufacturing route right away, I knew that if I build something really good, I would get noticed for the bigger opportunity. After a year still getting my feet wet in my mind of “What are my flavors? What is my true core product? What are my flavors?” So yes, I got noticed. A growing Franchise Group approached me and asked if I would make products for them. Of course, at that point, I was excited, this is my start into manufacturing. Once I had that first contract, and then quickly after secured a really large second contract, then I went to the bank and secured a much bigger loan and started buying the big equipment.

Spencer: Wow. And then you started buying that big equipment. And you were picking up some good contracts. What did that customer base shift look like? As you went from a storefront into manufacturing? How did the scale sort of shift?

Abel: This was now the very beginning of 2020. In that year, when I made that shift, I experienced ten times growth that year. It was the pandemic, and retail was very timely. Because the retail store that I spent all of 2019 really getting ready for launch and establishing were closed now for any business other than delivery business. In February of 2020 was when I got approached by the first private label client, and then in April, the much bigger client came to me and said, “Would you consider private label?” I liked the depth of your product line. To me this was exactly what was suppose to happen in my mind from switching into more of this manufacturing realm. I didn’t really even realize that private label was going to be the way that I was going to do it. I think that everything rolled out pretty organically.

Spencer: I’m over here, kind of giggling because, what you’re telling me is that in February of 2020, somebody came to you and said, “Something really bad’s about to happen, but I’m going to keep your business alive.” Here’s an opportunity that’s going to change the course of your business when retail shuts down.

Abel: Exactly, it was kind of magical, the way that it all played out. Because ten times growth in the year of the pandemic was something that was amazing for me. Looking back, it was pretty magical how it actually happened because most businesses didn’t have that type of growth that year. 2020 was the year this all fell into place for me. There’s obviously so many more details to what went on behind the scenes here. Here I am now with the store that I built out all of 2019 and, opened midway through 2019. In my head, that store was something I was considering franchising and there were a couple different business plans I was kind of playing with behind the scenes. These opportunities came in early 2020, that ended up completely solidifying my venture into manufacturing. That was definitely the way for me to go when everything was closed.

Spencer: Yeah, those pieces of the puzzle really came together in the midst of a bad storm. Alright, we’re going to do a deep into your journey through manufacturing and look to the future. By the end of this podcast season, we’re gonna really have a good grasp on where you’re heading into the future. But right now, I want to know, as far as your clientele, what’s your mix of contract manufacturing and branded products that you sell nationally? Where are you with that now?

Abel: Most of our businesses contract manufacturing. Now this is the first year I’ve really started selling and marketing my brand. Next year, there’ll be a lot of growth. So contracts that I’m securing this year, a lot of them will start next year, and be D’Vine branding. But up to this point, it’s predominantly contract manufacturing and private label business. That was the growth of my business. I wanted to build a big company, that was the goal. It wasn’t that I needed to have this. Yes, I wanted to have a brand, ultimately, but it was more about building something that was large. And I could see myself employing a lot of people and just wanting to build something much bigger than myself. That was a great place to start. It was in the contract manufacturing. But now I’m in the spot that I’m marketing and selling my own brand and have the know how of how to produce. All of my new business that I’m bringing on now, I’m no longer bringing on any more contract manufacturing, and I’m focused on my D’Vine brand now.

Spencer: But you’re keeping the current contracts that you have?

Abel: Yes, which have been great. And a really great way to establish and have cash flow to now focus on my brand.

Spencer: That’s amazing. We’re going to get into this in a couple of weeks. But how many employees do you hav now? You started not even knowing how to make cookies. How many people do you have working for you now?

Abel: We have about 22 right now. During the month of December, we’ll usually go up to 30-35. When we’re still making a lot of cookies that month. But our core team is is not huge. In production, we have about 14 different people. Then I have management staff, HR and basic foundation of people supporting me in administrative roles.

Spencer: All right. This story is just so fascinating to me. Rebecca, I think that you’ve done something really interesting. I think you’re growing a really incredible company. There are so many established commercial baking companies, we’re such a mature industry. It’s really great to hear the newness of an entrepreneur, getting started in a cookie manufacturing. And to bring the people who’ve been doing this for so long back to that feeling of what it was like to get into it in the first place. Thanks for sharing your story of how you got started today. This was really fascinating. I am so excited to spend the next few weeks with you as we talk about your philosophies behind your product development. And taking that deep dive into stepping into manufacturing and looking at how you’re developing your staff. Then ultimately talking about the strategic growth that you have for D’Vine Cookies. That’s an outline of where we’re going to go. I cannot wait to talk to you next week about product development.

Abel: I’m definitely happy to share my journey. It has been rewarding, and difficult but you know, but it’s something that I love. Thank you so much for having me on this podcast. It has been so fun for me to share where I’ve been and where we’re going.

Spencer: Awesome. Well, Rebecca, I will talk to you next week and we will hear about how you come up with your cookie varieties.

Abel: Sounds great!

Welcome to the fourth season of the Troubleshooting Innovation podcast. Stephen Hallam, brand ambassador for Dickinson & Morris and chair of judges for the Tiptree World Bread Awards, explores the elements of artisan bread baking that can — and should — be incorporated into commercial bread production. Our final episode is all about people, training and culture in the world of artisan bread production at scale.

Learn more about this season here, and listen to Troubleshooting Innovation on AppleSpotifyGoogle and Stitcher.

 

Joanie Spencer: Welcome to Troubleshooting Innovation, a Commercial Baking podcast. I’m your host, Joanie Spencer, editor-in-chief for Commercial Baking. I’m speaking with Stephen Hallam, Brand Ambassador for Dickinson and Morris and chair of judges for the Tiptree World Bread Awards, which will take place at IBIE 2022 September 18-21 in Las Vegas. This season, we are exploring the principles of artisan bread baking that can – and should – be incorporated into commercial bread production.

Spencer: Our final episode is all about people, training and culture, and the world of artisan bread production at scale. Stephen, thank you so much for joining me in this final week. I have thoroughly enjoyed our conversations and I’m very excited about this one.

Stephen Hallam: Well, people, where are we without people? We start as babies and hopefully leave the world as adults but in between time, there’s an awful lot of knowledge and wisdom – wisdom seems to come with age, I think – that we gain in the world of baking, which is a science, the knowledge is fascinating of what goes on when you are actually mixing dough and when you are baking, along with the action of steam on the dough in the oven. That’s just bread. The same applies in cake making and how you make cake. The different processes, sugar batter, cake batter, etc., all in method. Lamination and what makes flaky pastry, puff pastry puff up? Why doesn’t it puff up when you’ve gone through the process of making it and all of that. Likewise with bread. We can make a dough sometimes and it doesn’t turn out as it should be. All of the science behind breadmaking is not difficult to learn and it’s not difficult to find. I think the two most important years of my life – I’m a retired baker now – but the two years that set me up for life were spent at a baking college in London. It was called the National Bakery School.

Hallam: After I left statutory schooling, I started to work for my father in the bakery. I was told I was helping out and three years later, I was still there. I was sat down by my father and he said, “I think if baking is to be your vocation, as it looks as if it’s going to be, then you need to do the job properly,” which is something I never did. He told me “You need to go to college.” Off I went to get a national diploma for a tech certificate in baking. What I learned in two years, I would never have learned in 30, 35, 40 years, just out in the big wide world or commerce. It was absolutely fascinating, and not just about the science of baking, but the law of contract and tort because when you’re buying and selling products to somebody, there’s legal statutory legislation associated with that about microbiology, hygiene, food safety, bakery organization so you’re not walking a half mile from one thing to another, it all flows. The actual science of behind what makes a loaf of bread and how it all works, what yeast does, learning all about the ingredients. When you understand where chocolate comes from, and the trials and tribulations from in the raw pod to the finished products, and its affinity it has for water, you treat it with much more respect, as you do a lot of your ingredients. The making of all the different fats, sugar – it is fascinating how sugar is made and all the different grades of sugar. Flour and where flour comes from and the challenges the miller has every year because it’s such a natural product. I found all this knowledge to be fascinating, and it’s helped me all my life wherever I’ve been and whatever I’ve been making within the industry.

Hallam: Now not everybody in the industry is as fortunate as I was to go to college for two years. Was it fun? Yes, great fun. I was in London for two years as a single person, I thoroughly enjoyed it. Now, because of this, whenever I see ingredients or I see a loaf, I always look at it in a very different way because I know what’s going on both technically and personally for the people behind making the loaf of bread to get it in front of me. Now, I also think I’m very fortunate that I’ve loved the career that I’ve had. My passport says I’m a baker, not a managing director or passenger or what have you, it says I’m a baker. And that does seem to be – certainly in Europe or Britain – much more respect towards people who have a craft skill and, in this case baking, than there once was. The consumer realizes that there’s a lot more passion, love and technical skill gone into making a loaf of bread than they might have previously, say some 20 years ago. We’ve seen with the rise of artisan bakeries and craft bakers, people paying quite a significant amount of money for a loaf of bread, 5,6,7 pounds for a loaf of bread, because of the time it’s taken to do it. In any bakery, I would challenge or ask the question, “How much do the people working in that bakery, wherever they might be, at whatever stage of process, what training they have received?” It has to be said that if someone knows more about the background of what they’re doing – if they’ve got the information, if they understand what happens in the dough, where flour comes from, if they understand why we only put this amount of water, if they know what happens if there is too much or too little water. If they’ve had quality time, so that means not stood at the table, scaling dough and mixing dough everyday, as important as might be for their role. If they’ve had some time away from the cold face, metaphorically speaking, to learn more about the broader aspect of the science, then not only will they be a better person for it but so will the business and so will product. They will always go an extra mile and a half because they care about it and that can be passed on to other people. That sort of charisma will be with that person. They may become a team leader or a dough handle or dough charge, or whatever the position may be. I find it very sad that all too often, there are some people in positions where they press a button and walk away, and they know no different.  And then they’re the people that get the blame if something goes wrong, because they didn’t know, they couldn’t tell by looking at the dough or they didn’t know that it needed another three or four minutes mixing or that it needed just that little bit of extra water because you’re dealing with new harvest flour, and it needs more development or the water absorption is higher, etc. I would imagine there’ll be many people that would say to me, “Well, that’s all very well at least but these things cost money,” etc. Training should be an inherent part of somebody’s role, we shouldn’t be asking anybody to do anything unless they’re appropriately trained. It does not cost, monetary wise, an awful lot more to engage people more in what they’re doing, giving them a bigger piece of the slice in terms of knowledge. So much can be done online now. Once upon a time, we used to have colleges all through the UK, and you could send your people, staff and employees to colleges on day release. And they’ve basically fizzled out, they’re no longer around, probably because time has become so precious. It can take quite a long time to come up with your qualifications, etc, unless you’re going to do it full time, and that’s a totally different scenario, where you go back into college for two or three years. That happens in Germany. You can’t set up a business, unless you’ve done your master’s degree or master’s certificate and that could take exactly that, two years. As a baker, you would set up and then immediately all your customers know that you have got the knowledge, you have got the training, because you’ve gone through that period that will have cost you significantly as well. So you’ve made a commitment but there’s an immediate trust there, that you’re not just going to be throwing some flour, water and yeast together and making something that you’re going to call bread and sell it.

Hallam: I think the quality of products would also improve when people have more passion for what they’re doing. In any business really – not just a bakery, but we’re talking bakeries – quality is not just about the products and the ingredients from which those products made. Quality is about the people that make those products. It’s about the pride in what they do. It’s the training they receive, the uniforms they wear, the respect they’re given, the equipment they use, sharpness of the knives, the condition and cleanliness of the bakeries, especially the vans and vehicles and so much more. Besides, all these values should be central to the DNA and culture of a business because quality is all about really a way of life. And nobody in honesty really wants to get up in the morning and go to work somewhere where they’re wearing dirty uniforms, where they’re being shouted at, there is more flour on the floor than there is on the table, or the flour store. I’m talking metaphorically here, I’m not wishing to offend anybody in what I say. You’re gonna have a long face, you’re gonna get up in the morning and think, “Oh, I got to go to work.” There are lots of people that don’t want to go to work, I appreciate that. But if you enjoy your work, and you’re getting enjoyment by being included, by not just being a number, but being a part of the broader team and being asked for your opinion and your advice. Somebody asking you for something and saying “please” rather than telling you something, or telling you to do this – “please” and “thank you,” gosh don’t they go a long way? To me, this is all sort of lifestyle and when it comes down to working in a bakery, the actual technical knowledge is the same today as it was 20 years ago as it will be in 20 years time. The actual art of fermentation and what happens with yeast and fermenting, how flour is made from wheat or whatever other grain for that matter. The protein that’s in there that forms the structure, the building block of a loaf of bread, the starch and what that does for the millers.

Hallam: Certainly for myself, there was a “ka-chung” moment when all this came together. It was as if my eyes opened and a judge turned to me and welcomed me with excitement of what was going to happen the next day. Now, there will be, I dare say, a lot of employers or bakers shaking their hands saying “It’s all very well for him,” this, that and the other. Well, I’m really talking about a culture here. Cultures don’t change overnight. Fashions do, they come and go. But in terms of cultures, you have to be consistent. Part of that consistency is treating your people with respect so that they have pride in what they do. And there’s all these little bits that I’ve been talking about, they’re not big. You’re saying good morning to someone in the morning or not saying good morning to somebody. As the boss, when you walk by, you can have a huge effect on that person and on the contrary to that, you may not realize how important it is to that person that you’ve said good morning to them as opposed to, in their eyes, just walked by and ignore them. They then become an incredible ambassador. Now, this isn’t a swoon effect that happens with everybody but it happens with more people than it doesn’t. And the combined effects of the parts is bigger than the individual parts in their own entity. To actually set aside time or create a process whereby all your people or employees can learn more, it doesn’t have to be in work time. You could put a room aside for people to just go and look at whatever the particular topic is you want to learn about, there is so much online if it’s not available from various baking societies, etc. as training packages. There’s two sides to this, isn’t there? There’s the training of the baking knowledge, which is important for the actual job in hand. There’s also the cultural side where people say, “That’s a great company to work for.” When you try and put your finger on that, somebody will say, “Well, I don’t know, it’s just there.” But when they do say that, you know you’ve got it right.

Spencer: I would agree with you that it does instill passion in the job that they’re doing no matter how big or small that they feel invested in the product they’re making or helping to make. I’m curious, as the chair of judges for the Tiptree World Bread Awards, when you’re judging a loaf of bread, does the care of the people come through when you’re judging a finished product? Can you tell the difference?

Hallam: Yes, I think it does. I’ll give you a classic example of something that is wrong that there is absolutely no excuse for. As if you have been presented with a loaf that’s dirty. A loaf of bread will come out of the oven and inevitably it is picked up by somebody wearing oven gloves or oven mitts. When you pick up a tin, a tin will be dirty, it’s coming out the oven. It’s not dirty, as in soil dirt, it’s dirty as in there’s oil and fat it has been in an oven for 30-40 minutes at 450 degrees Fahrenheit. It’s hot, and you’re going to have a dirty side of the mitts where you pick the tin up and then you knock the loaf of bread out into an area that you keep clean. Then you reverse by putting the tin in on one side and you reverse your gloves. You have the clean side that you pick the loaf up with and maybe put it in a wire tray to cool it off. To actually see dirty bread on the shelf because it’s been picked up with the mitts that have also been handling the tins, it’s blasphemous. It just shouldn’t be there and it doesn’t look nice, you wouldn’t want to eat it. And if it’s on a competition table and it’s in front of you, the message is “Well that’s okay on that business for that to happen.” Because if you’re entering a product into a competition, you are basically saying, “That’s the best I can do.” When you enter for the first time, you have what you’ve made. Let’s say it’s the best you can do and it goes and it will be assessed by the judges against the various criteria that we’ve spoken about previously. And comments are made on that loaf as to how it could be best improved or what most impressed the judges about it. The questions leading to positive constructive remarks that go back to the entrant. And then you’ll enter again, and you’ll take that into consideration next year and so on. What gives me huge satisfaction is to see people who’ve regularly entered over the years, and how their entries have improved year over year. Because they’ve taken note of what’s been said. Such remarks sweep through the whole of the business, this loaf is representing that business. It’s the loaf that wins, of course, but all the hype around that goes back into the business, it goes to the people involved in making the loaf. You do see this improvement year on year. And coming back to your question. Yes, if something is just half baked, or just slapped together, and it’s put into the competition, a remark will be made on the assessment form of how it could be improved. An assailant remark as well. You know, this isn’t about putting people down, it’s about helping people. And if it’s helping to improve the quality of loafs across the baking industry, that’s got to be a good thing, I think. We’re always looking for improvement. But at first an entrant might think that’s alright and they put it in, and they did all that work and get some feedback, and then work on it and work on it. When you reach the stage where you’re entering quite regularly – because you realize what this is doing for your people, and that the whole process of entering and getting awards brings the rewards to customers, to people, the business and all of that – you get to a point where you think, “Well, that’s not good enough. I’m not going to put that in.” It’s just occasionally something might not go right and if it’s not right, you shouldn’t be putting it into the competition. Yes, you may have paid the entry fee to enter. But by putting it in the competition, you are saying, “This is representative of what I or what we do. That’s the best we can do.” You don’t enter a competition to come second or third do you? You enter to win.

Hallam: You may come second or third, or the loaf may come second or third. The loaf may get a bronze instead of a silver or a gold, but you don’t enter to get a bronze. You enter to get a gold, you aim high. If you’re forever aiming low, you’re not going to get anywhere, are you? There’s going to be no improvement. You do see that in the loafs. Sometimes there are loafs that stand out. They are there on the judging table and from across the room, you can look across and you go, “Wow!” To get the perfect loaf where all the elements that we’ve been talking about in our podcasts, they’ve all come together. It’s been perfectly mixed, the fermentation is exactly right, the flavor is spot on, it is neither too much but there’s flavor there. You do and you pick this up. Generally, just like you or me, if you feel good on the inside, you look good on the outside.

Spencer: That’s a good point.

Hallam: With a loaf of bread, if it is looking good, then you’re 95% sure it’s going to be good on the inside. Not always, but generally, if you’ve got 20 loaves and you line them all up from the ones that have serious wow factor to those that “oh dear, what’s that one doing here?” and you put them in a row – again, not always, but more often than not – the ones nearest the top from appearance are the ones that will be in the money and in the points. There’s so much going on to get it to look good and so much has happened for the appearance to be good. Or the ingredients, the mixing, the processing, the baking and the person that’s done all of that as well. So yes, you can tell. Sorry, that was rather a long answer.

Spencer: I love your analogies though, I think they’re spot on.

Spencer: Let’s take a break from this episode of Troubleshooting Innovation to talk about Commercial Baking partnership with the International Baking Industry Exposition (IBIE). As IBIE’s Gold Media Partner, Commercial Baking has provided all new media products to help attendees and exhibitors get the most from this year’s show. Check out our IBIE monthly newsletter, IBIE ShowGuide digital edition and our IBIE Booth Trailers by visiting commercialbaking.com. And don’t forget to come see us at IBIE Booth #3125 in the West Hall of the Las Vegas Convention Center. We’ll see you at IBIE.

Spencer: Here’s another question for you, Stephen. Here in the States and in the commercial baking industry, there’s a term we use, and it’s called dough heads. The ones who can look a the dough or touch it and know exactly what’s wrong. That type of person is becoming fewer and further between in our industry and there’s a real struggle to either find dough heads or teach people how to become dough heads. You’ve said something that was so important and that’s that the process itself hasn’t changed. Fermentation is the same. The technology to automate that process has changed drastically. What automation can do is not only make the job easier for unskilled bakers, but it also kind of makes this industry attractive to a digital minded workforce. How can we get workers who are not bakers, who are operators? How can we teach them how to become dough heads? How can we get them back to the basics?

Hallam: It starts with the business itself, doesn’t it? Is there a desire to do it? Because if the business is moving away from the driven passion of what makes a loaf of bread, just to create a return because it’s becoming fully automated and somebody called a chief financial officer or an accountant has said, “Well, we’ll cut this out, because we can make an extra 2% margin by taking this shortcut.” It needs some champions in there, and it needs some people to say you’re wrong. It needs a mindset where within the business, you introduce training programs, it really does. In the UK, we had City and Guilds, which was an accreditation, goes back many years. And there was a time you would do your apprenticeship and before you received your full City and Guilds accreditation, you became a journeyman.

Hallam: It was a little bit different. University nowadays, if it’s a four-year course, you’ll do three years in a year out and that year out is a placement year. Well, the journeyman and it could have been one, two or three years as long as it was, you’d travel around. You were called a journeyman because you’re traveling to different bakeries and picking up skill, etc. The commitment comes from the business itself and the people at the top who are in the position, the board if you like. Generally there’s one or two influential people on the board, who can put product quality first or products first. Because to make good products, you’ve got to have good people, and those people have got to know what they’re doing. Just pressing a button is not knowing what you’re doing. If you lose all this basic underpinning knowledge, you’re not going to business, you’ll not have the custom. Slowly, little by little, you’ll start changing the product. Say it’s a fruit loaf so we’re not controversial. It has a mix, it has 50,000 grams of fruit in it. Some bright spark will have done a calculation to say, “Well actually, you know, price of fruit has gone up. So sultana, we can’t get five crown Australian now, so we will move to Mediterranean or Californian. But instead of putting 50,000 grams, we’ll cut it down, we’ll put 49 kilo instead of 50 kilo into the mix, we’ll still call it fruit bread, because you know, legally we can do that.” Then the next year, it becomes 48 kilo and then it becomes 47 kilo. And before you know where you are you’ve got a very different products. Unless you’ve got champions in place, who are very protective, and that means they’ve got the skill base, they have the CV, they have the credentials to pull people up and say this is wrong. You know, what, what are we about here? But there needs to be a mission statement of the business to ensure that it can be followed. Somebody can’t suddenly undermine it and say, “No, you’re wrong,” And because you’re being difficult, you’re sacked. Because we don’t like what you’re hearing and we’re actually going down to 45 kilo of salt, is absolutely dreadful. What’s coming first, the margin or the product? I fully appreciate escalation of prices. We’ve got energy costs going north, we’ve got all raw materials escalating in price. But should you forsake the quality of a product because of that? No, you shouldn’t. There should be a mechanism process within the business that basically ensures this knowledge is not lost. It could be a weekly seminar of just an hour or half an hour that’s built into a training package. You can have product heroes that can pass this knowledge along and show people. You can learn an awful lot by seeing what wrong is as opposed to seeing what right is. Now we talk about proving just right so this structure you’ve got the oven spring, this, that and the other. If you deliberately make some products, and I’m talking on a test basis not a huge plant, that have no salt in, that’s is far too stiff a dough, that is underproofed, that is overproofed and you see the results. In fact, lots of places do don’t they? Take cookie businesses, etc. and what good looks like and what bad looks like in terms of baking on a color chart. But seeing it on a chart is one thing, actually having a symposium where people can see it for themselves or do it for themselves might be a big ask for some businesses, but the commitment lies on the industry itself to come up with a solution not to lose this underpinning knowledge. They have to put some processes in place in their businesses that allow this to happen. And then of course, you have to follow it up to make sure it does happen. Because there’s no use saying, “We have a training scheme.” Well reward, does there need to be reward? Reward needn’t be monetary when people have attained a level of skill, it doesn’t mean there’s an increase in the wage rate, it can be in all of the ways. But this comes back to what I went on a little bit about to begin with in terms of the culture of the business and the pride.

Spencer: Okay, I have one final question that I think can sort of sum up this episode and sum up this season of Troubleshooting Innovation. Do you think it’s possible to teach manufacturing employees the craft of artisan breadmaking?

Hallam: Yes, yes of course. Gosh, I’ve said it a few times, haven’t I? Oak trees come from acorns. You wouldn’t have large manufacturing if it didn’t start somewhere small to begin with. It can be done. The challenge will be the people in that business allowing it to be done. Somebody will say it’s a cost here or won’t have the time or haven’t got enough people or this, that and the other. If you want it to happen, it will happen. I think the industry needs it to happen, doesn’t it?

Spencer: It does. Yes.

Spencer: Stephen, I think that’s the perfect note to end on.

Hallam: Well it’s been an emotional few weeks and thank you for teasing all this out of me. I am but just a humble baker and very proud of it. If anybody should be coming to IBIE and they’d like to come and have a chat or see what takes place in the process of judging loaves of bread, do come and visit us at the Tiptree World Bread Award stand.

Spencer: Absolutely, definitely. I’m looking forward to meeting you in person at IBIE at the Tiptree World Bread Awards. And I just cannot thank you enough for helping me look at some of the commonalities between artisan bread production and commercial bread production. I think there is so much to learn and that can be applied to and from both sides. I’m just thrilled to see it all come together at IBIE. Thank you again, Stephen, and I will see you very, very soon.

Hallam: I look forward to a Joanie. And just remember, it’s all about the loaf.

Spencer: Thanks for listening to Troubleshooting Innovation, a Commercial Baking podcast. We are excited to join the industry in person as an IBIE Gold Media Partner. Be sure to check out our IBIE monthly newsletter, IBIE ShowGuide digital edition and our IBIE Booth Trailers, all available at commercialbaking.com. Be on the lookout for exclusive digital content live from the show and don’t forget to visit us at Booth #3125 in the West Hall. We’ll see you in Las Vegas.

Welcome to the fourth season of the Troubleshooting Innovation podcast. Stephen Hallam, brand ambassador for Dickinson & Morris and chair of judges for the Tiptree World Bread Awards, explores the elements of artisan bread baking that can — and should — be incorporated into commercial bread production. This episode is all about working with machines: some of the misconceptions and important elements of bringing automation into artisan baking. Here’s what bakers need to understand about the types of machines that are used and how they fit into the process.

Episodes will be released every Sunday through Sept. 11. Learn more here, and listen to Troubleshooting Innovation on AppleSpotifyGoogle and Stitcher.

 

Joanie Spencer: Welcome Troubleshooting Innovation, a Commercial Baking podcast. I’m your host, Joanie Spencer, editor-in-chief for Commercial Baking. I’m speaking with Stephen Hallam, brand ambassador for Dickinson and Morris and chair of judges for the Tiptree World Bread Awards, which will take place at IBIE 2022, September 18-21 in Las Vegas. This season, we are exploring the principles of artisan bread baking that can – and should – be incorporated into commercial bread production.

Spencer: This episode is all about working with machines, some of the misconceptions and important elements of bringing automation into the artisan process.

Spencer: Hi, Stephen. Thanks for joining me this week.

Stephen Hallam: Hi, Joanie. Nice to be talking again.

Spencer: We are going to talk about working with machines. That is something that is a hot topic in the artisan bread production on the commercial side. Creating artisan bread at scale, it’s more complex than simply automating the process. I really want to pick your brain on this one in what needs to be understood about the types of machines that should be used if you’re scaling up artisan breadmaking and how they should fit into the process. I feel like there has to be a lot of forethought before you just start investing in machines.

Hallam: In one sentence, you’ve just said it, it’s the preparation and the forethought. An artisan or craft baker will be making a loaf or loaves that are unique to them and their process. That’s why people shop with them and not the baker down the road. They’re both maybe very good loaves and breads, and I’m sure they are, but there’s always a point of difference with how you do it.

Hallam: The way that you make them bread and the flavor you have, the appearance it has, and all the rest. Hence customers queuing at your door. Now there is absolutely nothing wrong with utilizing machinery – we all need it, whether you’re small or whether you’re large. The key point has to be the product that you’re making is sacrosanct. It should not be changed to suit the machine. That is probably where so many things can go wrong because you’re not ending up with a unique product anymore. I have to say there are remarkable examples of where machinery manufacturers recognize this. They actually adapt their machinery to suit the purpose of the baker and their particular doughs. If we were to walk through the making of a loaf of bread, we’ve got the flour, and you’re going to mix it and you are going to add water to it, along with whatever else. If we’re looking at machinery, a water meter and the chiller, so the water is chilled, that’s a pretty good start to a mix. There are so many mixes available. Effectively, the mixes are bringing all the ingredients together and they’re going to develop the protein that’s in the dough to the degree that you wish it to be developed. Because there are some doughs that want more development and there are some doughs that want less. First part of call for any baker will be to try machinery. Actually get the manufacturers to make some dough or bread, using their recipe and their flour, not necessarily what the machinery manufacturer supplies. And you can ship some of your flour there, and go there if you can. Also, talk to other bakers that are using such machines, because that’s the real test. It may suit their process but when you actually see what their process is, you may discover is very different from your process. It makes you take a step back and say, “Oh, is that too severe of a mixing action for me or is it gentle enough for whatever it may be?” I, personally, am not 100% up to speed with equipment manufacturers across the US, much more I’d say in Europe. We do find Italian, Spanish and German manufacturers are particularly good. That’s not to say they’re the go-to, but they’re particularly good at adapting to suit the purpose of baker. As an example, if we were to look at a sourdough that has 88-90% hydration, it’s containing an awful lot of water and you have a dough that is extremely soft. When the baker’s come to process that in terms of scaling and shaping it to put it into baskets, there will be flour flying around everywhere because it’s so sticky. You’re introducing faults into the bread straightaway with all this flour. A baker’s answer to when something is sticky is to throw some flour at it. But if you are deliberately creating a dough with very, very high hydration, that’s going to be undermined. With all the flour on the table and flour on the hands when you’re dividing you have flour on the scale pan, etcetera, etcetera. Machinery is available now that can handle such wet doughs. There’s a particular colleague of mine here in the UK. He sent a pallet of flour over to Italy, and they did all of their R&D for it. They did all of the sort of work that you would do when you get a machine, they did it out there at the machine manufacturer. So, when the machine was delivered, it was full steam ahead, and they didn’t have a month or two of trials and wastage and what have you because it didn’t suit the purpose. This particular colleague, he scales sourdough into a kilo and 500 gram units. That is now done automatically. There is absolutely no flour that goes in this divider, whatsoever.

Hallam: The dough is in a chamber, there’s no ram or cam that’s pushing or manipulating the dough. It may move along onto a waste scale. It’s cut exactly at 500 gram units without the use of flour or anything sticky. Then it’s transferred onto another piece of kit that very gently doesn’t mold it, but it balls it up to or rounds it. Because the last thing you want to do when you’ve developed the structure, over a whatever period of time, maybe 24 hours or longer, is to lose all of that. We talk about typical “tin bread” over here in Europe or white tin loaf. When you’re molding it, you’re putting lots of tension into the dough because you’ve nurtured it and developed that protein in there. When you mold it, it will stand up proud off the table top, and you don’t with sourdough, you want something that is just going to retain this airy, delicate structure that you’ve created. The piece of dough is picked up and it’s put into the proving baskets. Then the next stage, that is very important for an artisan baker, is that it goes into a retarder or a dough conditioner. Let’s call it a dough conditioner because retarders sound a bit like a fridge. Effectively it is a fridge, but it’s a refrigerated cabinet that the humidity is relatively well controlled. It’ll be about 4°C, that is 75° relative humidity. It’ll be in there for around 18 hours and over that period of time, the heat will slowly be introduced, not a lot, keeping the humidity quite low. This give it a long and slow final rising or proof that keeps the dough very stable. That is the favored method across Europe for sourdough. And when we come to bake the loaf, your choice of oven, artisanally, it will be on the oven’s soul. You have a decision, is that going to be directly onto the oven’s soul using setters or is it going to go onto trays? It then can go in whatever sort of oven, a rack oven, a reel oven, a rotary oven, a deck oven, a traveling oven, etc. There’s lots of points to consider. Every baker needs a mixer, you don’t have to have a water chiller, but it improves consistency if you do. Let’s assume your bakery is air conditioned except around the oven, because that’s going to be better on your dough.

Hallam: We’ve mentioned this in a previous podcast. This is so you’re not getting skinning and what have you on your dough products. And the people are better tempered if they’re not really hot. Let’s not forget how good baker’s need a good divider that suits your dough and suits your process. Don’t be buying something that a manufacturer can say that it will do this, but in order for that to happen you have to do this. And you’ve got to take X percent water out of it. Who is the customer here? It’s not the manufacturer, it’s the baker isn’t it? I think a baker has every right to be tenacious in their requirement and seeking out the right piece of kit for what they want. You can’t have too much refrigeration really, for your retarding and what have you. You can’t rush a sourdough and just leave it in the bakery. You’ve no control over it, we come back to this magic word again, control. You need to be looking after this very active piece of dough. The way to do it is through temperature: we’re talking refrigeration and the right sort of oven. When you’re setting a cold dough piece into a hot oven, you do get a much better oven spring. I’ll backstep a little and go back to your classic typical white “tin bread” that’s popular in this country. It goes into a prover that’s around 30-35°, it’s hot and there is loads and loads of steam. The dough itself can be quite sticky when it comes out the prover. It’s not as stable as it would be if it had a very long, slow proof. Retarding and proving are very similar. You just slightly turn the heat up. It’s controlled, the equipment does that for you and you end up with a fabulous crumb from it all. The conclusion to me is don’t just put up with anything but be very tenacious in trying equipment out and getting manufacturers to change what they do to suit your purpose. Because you don’t have to buy from that manufacturer if it’s not giving the result that you need.

Spencer: Let’s take a break from this episode of Troubleshooting Innovation to talk about Commercial Baking‘s partnership with the International Baking Industry Exposition. As IBIE’s Gold Media Partner, Commercial Baking has provided all new media products to help attendees and exhibitors get the most from this year show. Check out our IBIE monthly newsletter, IBIE ShowGuide digital edition and our IBIE Booth Trailers by visiting commercialbaking.com. Don’t forget to come see us at IBIE Booth #3125 in the West Hall of the Las Vegas Convention Center. We’ll see you at IBIE.

Spencer: I was thinking about the word control and how you had brought that up several times in previous episodes, and how important it is for the baker to be in control of the dough. I think if you’re looking at the dough, the baker and the equipment supplier, the baker has to be that centrifuge between the dough and the machines. In order to get that product, the baker has to be in charge. So I would 100% agree with you. I’ve heard bakers say it so many times, “I’m not going to change my formula for the equipment, the equipment has to suit my formula.”

Hallam: It’s a big world out there now, you know? There is equipment that will do what you require it to do. There are manufacturers that will listen to what you do and there are always a lot of smaller producers and artisan craft bakers that are taking that next step and getting bigger. There’s lots of equipment for the very small people, there’s lots of equipment for the very big commercial setups. But that in between is not so well serviced.

Hallam: You know, when you move from small to large, the amounts of capital needed are sort of infinitesimal sometimes, to comprehend to be able to afford. It’s little steps.

Spencer: Definitely.

Hallam: The analogy of an oak tree coming from an acorn. Let it grow carefully and do not go out and just buy something unless it pays for itself.

Spencer: Yeah. When thinking about IBIE and those mid-size commercial bakers or artisan bakers who are ready to take that next step. Like you mentioned, that million square feet of show floor space can be really overwhelming. I think it’s important for those bakers to really do their homework in advance, because there are so many options and everything is customizable these days, right? Those mid-level bakers should really not be afraid to visit the Artisan Marketplace, to check out the Tiptree World Bread Awards to see the best-in-class and finished product and three, look across the board and don’t be afraid to see what the artisan bakers are doing in the North Hall and what the large scale manufacturers are doing in the West Hall. Because I think that there is something to be learned from the artisan and the commercial side together. I think it’s a wealth of knowledge available to the mid-size bakers who are scaling up.

Hallam: Totally agree. If you’re making the commitment and the effort to come to IBIE, it is huge, it is vast, so you need to maximize your time. Otherwise, you’re going to go home feeling cheated, because you haven’t got really the answers for why you went there. If you sit down and decide “Why am I going?” and what you are after, along with “Where do I need to go for that?” There’s lots to help people with that. You just need to do some homework first. Talking to other bakers, we are a friendly lot, you know? There are very few professions where you might have run out of an ingredient and then you go and ask your competitor, where you might bake around the corner, if you can borrow some yeast or borrow some flour, it happens. But know that there’s something about being able to turn three or four basic, very diverse, raw materials into something that’s is nourishing and creates great joy. Then the challenge of doing that every day, and then every week. And then of course, ensuring that all your people and all your colleagues are as equally passionate about it as you are. This is another challenge and something we’ll talk about in another podcast. Because you know, as the boss, you can’t do it all yourself so you do need some help. We come back again now to machinery. Machines can  help you. It’s really about the people that are pushing the buttons and the people that are buying the machines. Do you have the right machine for the right purpose?

Spencer: Exactly. You said machines aren’t bad. When you’re thinking about those artisan bakers ready to scale up, it can be very frightening. It makes me think of when several, several years ago, I had the opportunity to cover the Coupe du Monde when it was at Europan in France. I interviewed some bakers on Team USA and one of them told me that the most frightening thing for him about competing on Team USA was that he had never used an industrial oven. Everything that he had done had been literally by hand and on woodfire until he joined Team USA and so it was a terrifying learning curve for him. That’s sort of an extreme example, but I think it is a little bit nerve racking and can have some misconceptions that an artisan baker would say, “Well, if you use automation or you use equipment, it’s not artisan anymore.” I don’t believe that to be true. Do you have any advice for those bakers on how they can ease the trepidation in going into an automated process and incorporating equipment into their breadmaking?

Hallam: I think it starts with mindset. If you don’t want to believe in something you never will. If you look around you and talk to other bakers, you’ll actually more often than not discover that by introducing the right piece of equipment within the process, you’re probably going to actually improve the quality of the loaf that you’re getting. Now that has to be a good thing. Consumers are always looking for better and better standards and not just the quality of product but the service as well. It’s only those businesses that can continue to improve their products. They will be the ones that thrive. There’s no successful business or brand out there that prospers over time by lowering its standards. With judicial choice, there are many elements to weigh off. There is the cost, which may seem frightening. There may also be a concern that introducing a divider. As for example, with my colleague who I was referring to earlier with this scaling of sourdough, he had four or five people involved in the process: one person weighing, one person scaling, and shaping, etc. However, that’s now reduced to one. But these people are needed in the business and they are not doing those particular tasks anymore. The product is better, because it doesn’t have the faults of flour being thrown all over it and pockets of poor shaping. It did probably take a couple of months for piece of equipment that divided there to settle in and be bedded in. That’s called managing change. If you were to go to those people now, and say “I’m taking this machine away and we’re going back to the way we used to do things,” they wouldn’t let you out of that bakery alive. It’s a bigger thing than just saying machines are bad. It’s the wrong machine will inevitably sky your judgment. This is where the groundwork has to be done to make sure that you really do go out of your way to ensure what you’re moving to is right for your product, your business and your people.

Spencer: Okay, I think you hit the nail on the head that machines aren’t bad, the wrong machines are bad.

Hallam: Correct. Yes. Absolutely.

Spencer: That’s really good insight. One thing I want to go back to, is going back to that concept of control. If a baker knows that they cannot compromise their product or their formula for the sake of the machine. When they’re venturing into the space, what do they need to make sure that they are demanding from their equipment suppliers?

Hallam: Oh, gosh, well, are you asking the impossible? Are you trying to make water stand up on end is a classic baker’s expression. Are you being reasonable? Are you being unreasonable? There has to be a solution for every challenge. If there is a trade off or a compromise, then only you can decide whether it should be at the sake of quality. I would maintain it should never and if a baker agrees to do that, it will be consequential denigration of the product if you start reducing product quality. Because customers will notice; You might not think they do, but they will. Perhaps you can’t continue to market it as the same product. If you really can’t find the right mechanical solution to the challenge you’ve got, are you right in doing it anyway if you want the business? What’s coming first? Are you making all your bread as a hobby or as a passion? Because that’s generally where businesses start, then you have to go and find another hobby. How driven are you on your margin, your ultimate return? It’s a hard one, I don’t think I could give a sweeping example that you have to do this and that. Ultimately, you have to do what’s right for you. Sometimes it’s good to say no. You can be drawn in to something and say yes for the sake of saying yes. I have with a molder once and it stood in the corner and never got used because it was quite complex to use it, but that was a training issue. It was one of the best types of molders for the purpose of which it was purchased for but the sales weren’t particularly that big and I purchased the wrong machine, really. But it was difficult to use so people didn’t use it.

Spencer: That’s kind of funny. I was going to ask you as a follow up about training expectations from equipment suppliers.

Hallam: Well, if you have purchased a new oven, the bake profile of a new oven – whatever the oven is – is going to be different to the oven that you currently have. Even if it’s the same brand or make, if it is five or six years newer, there will be efficiencies that have been introduced into the manufacturer of the oven that will make it better. Because no oven manufacturer is going to be continually making an oven that is worse than the model they brought out before. And you need help to understand the settings because it is not just top and bottom heat anymore. You have top heat, bottom heat, back heat, front heat and the changing of bake profiles during the baking. High heat to start with then lowering down, introduction of steam. If you’re doing cake it could be on a continual regular basis over the baking profile. Quite often, as soon as you move to a new oven, you’re finding that the efficiency of transfer of heat whilst saving energy. That’s a big one at the minute isn’t that, you know, most bakers in the UK at the moment are facing an increase of energy cost of 300%. I don’t think anybody has an answer as to how to get over that other than prices are going to have to go north. It is a mitigating circumstances that everybody is facing the same challenge both in the industry and consumers at home. You immediately start to be a little bit more canny with usage and lights, etc. When you’re not in the room they’re switched off, this way they are not on all day and night. Oven electricity is a classic example. An equipment manufacturer, (as opposed to somebody who’s just selling the equipment), the manufacturer, I would be most surprised if they are not as helpful as can be if and when they are asked to give you the answers you want. If you’re talking to somebody who just sells equipment and isn’t a baker themselves, or hasn’t even been to where the equipment is made or has never used it, you’re talking to the wrong person.

Spencer: I agree with you that the equipment manufacturers in general are very quick to help and to train. I think it’s good advice to include that as something you are steadfast in requesting, so that there is a level of teaching and training. I also agree with you if they are a baker, all the better.

Hallam: Yes, because you’re talking the same language. In this instance, another manufacturer, they will have bakers on the team, they know what they’re talking about. You’ll also get a lot more respect. As a manufacturer, you get a baker come onto you and start asking you challenging questions about bake profiles, etc., you smile because you think great, you are talking to somebody that knows what they’re talking about. As the baker, you’re going to come away feeling good. And thinking I’m getting somewhere here.

Spencer: Absolutely. Well, Stephen, I think those are really all the questions that I have in talking about incorporating machines and just having that conversation about bakers stepping into an automated process and having that relationship with machines. Next week is going to be very interesting because we’re going to talk about the people. There has to be a relationship between the people and the machines because it’s about so much more than turning on the equipment or pressing a button and dealing with the interface. I’m excited to bring this whole conversation we’ve been having together at the end next week to talk about people, training and culture in the world of artisan bread. Thank you for today’s discussion and taking the fear out of machines and automation in artisan bread making.

Hallam: Absolutely. I’ve throughly enjoyed it. I’m looking forward to the final episode, saving the best till the end.

Spencer: That’s absolutely true. I will reconnect with you next week. Stephen,

Hallam: I look forward to it. Thanks very much, Joanie.

Spencer: Thanks for listening to Troubleshooting Innovation, a Commercial Baking podcast. We are excited to join the industry in person as an IBIE Gold Media Partner. Be sure to check out our IBIE monthly newsletter, IBIE ShowGuide digital edition and our IBIE Booth Trailers all available at commercialbaking.com. Be on the lookout for exclusive digital content live from the show and don’t forget to visit us at Booth #3125 in the West Hall. We’ll see you in Las Vegas.

 

Welcome to the fourth season of the Troubleshooting Innovation podcast. Stephen Hallam, brand ambassador for Dickinson & Morris and chair of judges for the Tiptree World Bread Awards, explores the elements of artisan bread baking that can — and should — be incorporated into commercial bread production. This episode focuses on mixing and how it can impact the artisan process, especially on a commercial scale.

Episodes will be released every Sunday through Sept. 11. Learn more here, and listen to Troubleshooting Innovation on AppleSpotifyGoogle and Stitcher.

 

Joanie Spencer: Welcome to Troubleshooting Innovation, a Commercial Baking podcast. I’m your host, Joanie Spencer, editor-in-chief for Commercial Baking. I’m speaking with Stephen Hallam, brand ambassador for Dickinson and Morris and chair of judges for the Tiptree World Bread Awards, which will take place at IBIE 2022, Sept. 18 – Sept. 21 in Las Vegas. This season, we are exploring the principles of artisan bread baking that can — and should — be incorporated into commercial bread production.

Spencer: This episode is focused on mixing and how it can impact the artisan process, especially on a commercial scale.

Spencer: Hi, Stephen, thanks for joining me.

Stephen Hallam: Hi, there, Joanie.

Spencer: This is another really great topic that we’re going to dive into this week. We’re taking a step back from what we discussed last week, which was time and temperature, and we’re gonna focus on mixing. It’s so important, because if you get the mix wrong, you might not know until the bread comes out of the oven. Let’s first talk about what are the key elements of properly mixing artisan dough?

Hallam: I don’t think this is something you can necessarily bespoke to an artisan or artisan bakers. For any baker before we start mixing, you need to think about what your ingredients are. You need to make sure that you’ve weighed down the ingredients according to the recipe as they should be. Because remember baking is a science, there’s a balance there. Some percentage of whatever it is you’re putting in, will achieve the result you want. The weighing of ingredients shouldn’t be taken lightly, and is a responsibility not to be dumbed down. If it’s weighed down wrong, then you’re not going to get the right result to start with. I think that’s worth highlighting. The biggest ingredient when it comes to making the dough is going to be the flour, usually. We’re very dependent as bakers of receiving a consistent flour from the miller or wherever we buy our flour from. More often than not, if something is not as it should be, either with the dough or the result and bread, quite often the last person that we ring up to say that something has gone wrong is the flour supplier, the miller. On the other hand, it sometimes should be the first because we expect 365 days a year that we’re getting a consistent supply of flour. But remember the miller’s task (and we’ve touched on this in an earlier episode) of producing consistent flour when he’s got the materials and grains, grown every year in different conditions, can be quite challenging. He has all the tools at his hands with all his equipment. They have all these extensive graphs to ensure that the flour he’s producing has the correct water absorption, starch content, damage starch content, all of that. We have talked a little bit about that, because we assume all that is consistent. If we’re consistent in what we do in the mixing process, and the dough isn’t right, then perhaps the miller is the first person we call to say, “Is something wrong with the flour?” It typically is when it’s a change of harvest. We’re moving on from the old wheat to the wheat from the new harvest. Millers won’t stream it all in 100% new wheat in one go, they’ll do it gradually. Sometimes that can create a huge effect. The classic one is water absorption.

Hallam: When you’re mixing and following the recipe for your dough, it will call for a certain percentage of water and that can vary. It can vary not just for the reasons I’ve explained, but also where the flour has been stored and how old the flour is. The purpose of mixing is that we’re adding water to the flour and it’s going to make a dough. The mixing action that is developing from the proteins to form this mass called gluten. There are three proteins in wheat flour: gluten, glide and globulin. They come together to form this fairly sticky, indigestible product or gluten. The action of mixing is to stretch and develop the dough for it to become elastic and extensible. Those two qualities of elasticity and extensibility is all down to the gluten and making sure that the gluten develops properly. If the dough doesn’t develop all the way, that could be because you either haven’t mixed it together enough or you haven’t added a sufficient amount of water. Then you’ll end up with what baker’s described as a tight dough. It could tear in the process of dividing and molding it into whatever shape you need. When it comes to its final proof, it won’t be quite as free and silky as you’d expect. When the dough goes into the oven, you won’t get the rise and get that oven spring that we might like to see. Again, this depends on what kind of loaf we’re making.

Hallam: Coming back to the actual mixing, the type of machine or the way in which the dough is mixed, could alter how much water is absorbed by the flour. The flour itself will have absorption rates which is an optimum amount of water that the protein and the starch in the flour will absorb. If you put too much in, the dough will be waterlogged. There was a danger of this many, many years ago in the days when sandwich bread was first prevalent here in the UK, because the dough was being put into a tin had a bottom and four sides. There was a belief that you could put more water in the dough because the tin would hold the dough up. But the sort of bread that was coming out was more like cotton wool, and didn’t have any structure to it. Now that was a classic example of too much water. If the dough is not mixed sufficiently, then the gluten won’t be developed enough and you will get some poor looking loafs in particular. During the proving process, it could fall apart because it’s so tight, that it is just not mixed enough. So is every dough the same? Not necessarily. We come back to what I started with, you’ve got to assume that you’re getting consistent flour and that it has been weighed correctly, all the ingredients been weighed down correctly. These are crucial, critical points in the process. Assuming that is the case, there are times when the dough may just take a little bit more water, because it needs it. Not because you’re trying to make it stand up as it was, but because water is considered to be the least expensive ingredient in the dough. The knowledge of the dough maker is quite crucial here. I wouldn’t say that there’s an aroma, but there is a visual sight when you’re doing this regularly and all the time. You do see whether something is not right, whether it needs more water, whether it needs less. If it need less water, is that because it has not been weighed properly or is it because there’s something wrong with the flour? At that point, you might not know. That’s the crucial part of mixing, just put everything in a machine and press a button and say, “It’s all right.” There needs to be lots of control points before that to ensure that it’s consistent. In a big commercial operation, if you’ve a dough that is particularly sticky because it has too much water in it, this could mean flour is not as it should be, that could cause umpteen issues when the dough is divided and then when it’s on intermediate proof and proving baskets, etc. because it could stick to everything. The baker’s answer can sometimes be to throw lots of flour on it except that then introduces other problems in that it won’t mold properly. You get skinning, you get holes in the final bread, etc. There’s a number of bottles on the wall, dominoes, that you just got to get in the right order. But the person actually mixing is quite crucial.

Spencer: Absolutely. Listen, I’m gonna tell you a story that is probably going to make you scream as an artisan baker. I’ll preface it with I was not in a bread bakery. It was probably seven or eight years ago, I was in a bakery that was very close to being what they call a “lights out” bakery and they told me as long as we have someone here to turn on the mixer, this entire line can run without anybody as long as one person is here to turn on the mixer.

Hallam: That’s a shame really, that something that’s probably run by an accountant, not a baker. There’s not a lot of passion in that.

Spencer: I feel like it exemplifies the two schools of thought that are prevalent in our industry right now because we are in such a shortage of not only labor, but also bakers. I hear so much that we don’t have any more “dough heads” — that’s what they call them here in the States is “dough heads” — the ones that can look at or touch the dough and know there’s a problem and have thoughts on how to solve that problem. I think in one direction, total automation is the key to solving that. Then the other direction is we cannot just populate the industry with operators. We need to teach them the process and we need to teach them what is happening when they turn on the mixer. I like the term that you used “dough maker,” that they’re not a mixer operator, they’re a “dough maker.”

Spencer: Let’s take a break from this episode of Troubleshooting Innovation. To talk about Commercial Baking’s partnership with the International Baking Industry Exposition (IBIE). As IBIE’s Gold Media Partner, Commercial Baking has provided all new media products to help attendees and exhibitors get the most from this year show. Check out our IBIE monthly newsletter, IBIE ShowGuide digital edition and our IBIE Booth Trailers by visiting commercialbaking.com. And don’t forget to come see us at IBIE Booth #3125 in the West Hall of the Las Vegas Convention Center. We’ll see you at IBIE.

Spencer: So I talked to another baker recently who gave me the analogy of customer service. They are teaching their line workers that the person at the mixer is serving the person at the makeup line. The person at the makeup line is the mixer’s customer. They have to make sure that they’re getting the dough ready for it to be properly processed down the line so then the oven is the makeup operator’s customer and so on. I am curious as to your thoughts on how you teach someone, like what are the fundamentals that a person new to the industry needs to know if they are put at the mixer, at the mixing station? What do they need to look out for? What happens next after they push that button?

Hallam: I think it’s deeper than that actually, because the science behind making a loaf of bread is not rocket science. There is a science there. It’s the same science today as it was 20 years ago and will be 20 years from now. This isn’t in terms of fermentation. All the things we’re talking about — breadmaking, fermentation, the materials — usually, the more involved people are, the more they fall in love with, the more passionate they become, the more caring they become. If there is a dearth or lack of colleges, places of education where people can go to learn this, then I would suggest the onus of the industry. Businesses themselves to be putting X amount of their budget, whatever it is, but making it part of their day-to=day business for whether it be with academies or an amount of time given online because all this could be learned online. Initially, the science of how big operation could put aside a room they could call the “baking academy” or whatever the name of the company is. Or people could do it at home online. We have to do it per se for health and safety. We have to do it for food safety, you know, you can’t work in a bakery unless you’ve got your basic food hygiene certificate. That same principle could be applied to bakery knowledge. Each colleague, member of staff, employee then becomes an ambassador of the company. If they’re learning more about what they’re doing, they will be the better for it and that will show in what they do and the company will be the better for it as well. It’s too easy to forget just how obliging and how helpful people will be if they’re asked or they’re given the tools to help them with what they’re doing. If the end game is always looking at the bottom right hand corner of the profit and loss account, I think we’re harping onto something that’s very emotional for me, because I firmly believe in it. And that’s the people. Quality in the bakery business is not just about the products and the materials, and the ingredients that those products are made from.

Hallam: It’s about the people, the respect those people are given the the environment in which they work, the cleanliness of the bakeries, the vehicles, the vans, the whole DNA of the business really should be about quality being a way of life. The more opportunity you give to your colleagues to improve the knowledge of what they’re doing, the greater the business will be for them moving forward. It’s not hard to teach people this science of baking, everybody will be a winner including the customers, who will end up paying for it because they’ll be buying more. The idea that the dough maker passing it on, the next personnel in the processes, the customer is great. But that sounds very clinical to me, you know that. They’re all working for the one company, it shouldn’t need an approach like that. The dough maker will know whether the dough is right or not, they will get a little bit upset if the oven then burns everything, and rightly so. They’re all one team, aren’t they? We come back to that…working as a team. So important. It all comes down to giving people the tools to enable them to do their job better. It’s called training.

Spencer: That is something that we’re going to get into much deeper into in a couple of weeks. Talking about training and the culture and incorporating that into the commercial side of artisan breadmaking.

Hallam: Yes, well coming back to mixing, which is what this episode is sort of about. Yes, I think I’ve made my thoughts fairly clear there on the importance of training and knowledge throughout all the team in the bakery. If the dough isn’t right when it’s made, it won’t get rectified further down the line. Whatever process in dividing, molding, proving, baking, it needs to start right. We’ve talked about stress on the dough, making it right includes giving it enough time to relax. Depending on what we’re making, that could take more time or it might be a dough that we’re making that needs to be processed with rolls. Generally, you want to get on and get those processed because you’re dividing them up into little small rolls and molding etc. During the mixing stage, you’ve put quite a lot of input into the dough. You’ve developed that protein and then you are going to rest it, divide it, molding it will create the tension in there. so you will end up with some nice bold shapes and they will hold their shape. It also gives a better of crumb in the final loaf. Again, this is dependent if you’re doing a sourdough, focaccia or something like that. But it starts with making the dough right. When you’re mixing it out, you don’t have to have something super duper that’s gonna mix it in five minutes. You could have something that takes time and is slowly mixing the dough that allows the protein to absorb all the water because that takes time. There’s a school of thought that the first 30 minutes you don’t mix the dough at all. You just allows the water to be absorbed by the protein and the starch in there. All you do is bring it together and walk away and leave it and then come back to it and then mix it. Because it’s been given time to fully hydrate before you start developing the protein.

Hallam: Added to that there’s another process whereby you’d hold your salt back. Salt being as stringent as it is, the dough is a little bit looser, it’s freer before you add the salt. If you’ve got quite a soft dough when you add the salt, it’s quite visible to see how it tightens the dough up. That’s the effect of the salt on the protein is not quite so soft. I think any artisan baker that is looking to scale or move up from what they’re doing should be mindful of what do they want to use the machine for? Is it just breadmaking? Or are they going to be baking cakes on there? If you’re going to buy a spiral mixer, that’s principally for doughs, so you’re not really making any cake batters on that. It’s just to take advice from equipment manufacturers to ensure that what they’re buying suits the purpose because there are some machines, planetary mixer, that you can use different attachments on. There’s a dough hook, a beater or whisk that would cover everything in an all-around bakery, from cake making to sponge to batters to dough making. But if the focus is on dough making, then a spiral mixer is considered very efficient in its mixing action. There are other schools of thought that don’t want to mix the dough quite as quickly as a spiral mixer would mix the dough. We’ll just have a single arm mixer, where the turning of the arm rotates the bowl, it’s a very much slower process. And as we’ve previously discussed, speed isn’t always best is it, slowing the job down. I think it’s having a clear mind of where you’re going, what you want to use the machine for space available and matched with the budget as well. I can remember, in my father’s bakery, we mixed all our doughs on a planetary mixer, because that’s what we had, and then he moved to a spiral mixer. The difference in the doughs was unbelievable. We had a much silkier crumb, it developed the protein much better, much more extensible and elastic. We had much softer bread rolls after they’d been baked. This was all down to better mixing because it was more efficient, not so much in terms of time, in the actual stretching of the dough as it was mixing. If you’re feeling aggrieved and you’re at home and want to go and make some bread, don’t because you’ll take it all out on the dough. Generally you’ll never make good bread at home if you’ve a little bit of anger in yourself because you will have taken it out on the dough.

Hallam: I say that tongue-in-cheek. I’m joking, I don’t advise everybody to go and do it. I think you can see the principal in that. I can’t think of a better place than IBIE for any aspiring artisan baker to get the advice of what they need.

Spencer: Yes, there’s going to be a smorgasbord of mixing technology at IBIE.

Hallam: They’re all about the same thing, producing good bread, which can only be a good thing for the industry.

Spencer: You touched on it a few times, thinking about when the mixing is done right. What does that do not only for making the whole process better and more efficient, but also what is that finished product look like when the mixing is done right?

Hallam: The finished products, it’ll have a better appearance, the softness and resilience of the crumb will be better. The softness, you can feel it. When you’ve cut into a loaf, and you stroke the surface of the loaf, it feels soft, it doesn’t feel as if it could take more water. It doesn’t feel waterlogged, it just feels silky and smooth. Resilience is when on the cut surface, if you press your four fingers — not your thumb, but the ends of the four fingers — into the crumb of the loaf, it will spring back. You press it down, not vehemently or hard, but you’re gently press it down and let it go and it comes back, so that’s resilience. If you haven’t mixed correctly to optimum effect, developing of the protein or the right water absorption, you won’t get that. It will have enabled you to have molded the dough so you have really tight tension in your dough shape. That will show on the appearance of the loaf, it will stand out from the other side of the room. Something that’s right. The actual texture of the crumb won’t be too dry or crumbly. It won’t be cohesive it’ll be just right, not too sticky, not too moist. If you are looking at something like ciabatta or baguette, then yes, it’s going to be slightly chewy and have an opening and more porous feel to it. Your taste and flavor aren’t necessarily going to be affected by the mixing, that will be affected by your process. Your flavors coming from the acidity, that’s influenced by the type of flour, the length of fermentation, solve and all of that. But it’s the appearance, the softness, the resilience, the texture of the crumb that’s most prevalent from correct mixing.

Spencer: All right. Well, Stephen, this has been so enlightening. I’ve loved taking 30 minutes or so to talk specifically about how mixing impacts the artisan bread baking process. This has been so interesting. Next week, we’re going to talk about the most important aspects of working with machines in artisan breadmaking because it’s the real factor in modern bread baking. I think some of the entries in the Tiptree World Bread Awards are products that were made with machines. I think you have a lot to offer on that and I’m excited to really pick your brain on those key factors that bakers need to consider when they’re working with automation to make artisan bread products. I’m excited for next week.

Hallam: Me too. I would doubt there’s any baker, artisan or large scale commercial, that aren’t using some form of machinery. In this day and age, it is almost a way of life. So I look forward to it.

Spencer: I do as well. Once again, Stephen, thank you for your time, insight and expertise. This has been wonderful. I will talk to you about machines and automation next week.

Spencer: Thanks for listening to Troubleshooting Innovation, a Commercial Baking podcast. We are excited to join the industry in person as an IBIE Gold Media Partner, be sure to checkout our IBIE monthly newsletter, IBIE ShowGuide digital edition and our IBIE Booth Trailers all available at commercialbaking.com. Be on the lookout for exclusive digital content live from the show and don’t forget to visit us at Booth #3125 in the West Hall. We’ll see you in Las Vegas.

 

Welcome to the fourth season of the Troubleshooting Innovation podcast. Stephen Hallam, brand ambassador for Dickinson & Morris and chair of judges for the Tiptree World Bread Awards, explores the elements of artisan bread baking that can — and should — be incorporated into commercial bread production. This episode focuses on time and temperature, two of the most important aspects of the artisan process.

Episodes will be released every Sunday through Sept. 11. Learn more here, and listen to Troubleshooting Innovation on AppleSpotifyGoogle and Stitcher.

 

Joanie Spencer: Welcome to Troubleshooting Innovation, a Commercial Baking podcast. I’m your host, Joanie Spencer, editor-in-chief for Commercial Baking. I’m speaking with Stephen Hallam, brand ambassador for Dickinson and Morris and chair of judges for the Tiptree World Bread Awards, which will take place at IBIE 2022, Sept. 18-21 in Las Vegas. This season, we are exploring the principles of artisan bread baking that can and should be incorporated into commercial bread production. In this episode, we are focused on time and temperature, often considered to be the most important factors in the artisan process.

Hi, Stephen, I’m so excited to talk to you about this particular topic, because I think that time and temperature apply to any bread baking process. But I think that it’s an important lesson that has to be mastered for the commercial process.

Stephen Hallam: I wouldn’t disagree. A majority of breads are fermented. Fermentation by its very nature introduces flavor. That flavor comes as a byproduct of the fermentation, which is acidity. The more you ferment, the more acidity and flavor you get. The other important asset of fermentation is the gas being produced. It’s stretching the dough, we’re assuming the dough has been mixed appropriately. You have your gluten matrix and your framework, this contains the carbon dioxide that is fermenting, and therefore rises. This stretches the gluten and it’s beginning to nurture and temperate so that it’s not inert and hard. The importance of doing that, is that when the loaf is eventually going to go into the oven, it will rise, and it won’t just snap and then fall because the protein hasn’t been correctly tempered. Now assume we’ve mixed it appropriately and we’ve got enough water in there, because the water absorption of the flour is important. The speed at which fermentation happens can be influenced by initially the amount of yeast one uses or if let’s assume we’re not going to use yeast, we’re using it from a sponge, but that will influence it as well as the temperature of the dough itself.

Let’s assume that we’re doing something wrong and we’ve made dough, we’ve mixed it very quickly in a machine, because we’re in a hurry. We don’t want to be hanging around slowly letting it mix, we’ve done it very quickly. The first thing that will happen is that you’ll have introduced quite a lot of heat into the dough through the friction of mixing, you can help counteract that by chilling your flour and chilling your water. But in creating too much heat, the whole process can run away with you too quickly. Now, there is an infatuation within some elements of the baking industry to do everything very quickly. Loads of yeast in the dough to increase the fermentation, time of the proof and into the oven. Say you’re in and out and in double quick time and producing more because you’ve got a lot to do. Whereas if you work on a cold dough, you allow fermentation to happen overnight. It creating a stronger structure within the dough and therefore the finished loaf, you’ll have created more flavor. Some schools have thought it is going to be more digestible. If you’re doing things very quickly you’re going to have to add things to it to help speed it along. A combination between fermentation and temperature, keeping things cool with fermentation. With a sour you have an ongoing sourdough that you refresh by adding more flour and water to it, that keeps it ongoing. It keeps a fairly consistent level of acidity and if you have too much acidity it’s going to end up destroying your gluten framework in your dough. Keep that consistent, that controls your acidity that you’re putting into the dough. You make your dough, cold water, leave it to ferment, possibly overnight, different bakeries will do different processes or different lengths of time that suits them. This is what we would call a Bulk Fermentation. At some point, the domain may be “knocked” back (baker’s term there). As its rises, you knock it back, that introduces more air in there and refreshes it. But it also, refreshes the fermentation process so that more stretching of the gluten framework will happen. Then you’ll eventually come to dividing the dough and molding it into its final shape, which from an authentic sourdough point of view, you hardly have do anything with it. You’ve created all the structure inside there. Now, all of that can be sped up, but you’re going to lose a lot of texture, you’re going to lose a lot of flavor. And you’re not going to be in control of what you’re doing, if it’s too hot.

Spencer: You’ve kind of sparked something for me, because last week, you said something about how from a business perspective, commercial bakeries are often focused on efficiencies. I do agree with you that we are in a culture of sort of immediate gratification, we have to do everything faster. But I think it’s so important to recognize the difference between efficiency and speed, because you can do something efficiently without speeding up the process and sacrifice of the quality of the product. I think that, the fermentation process can be automated, but not for the purpose of making it go faster, because that is counterproductive to what we’re trying to accomplish.

Hallam: Yes, I was talking to a colleague earlier this week and they make a sourdough that is eight percent hydration. There’s huge amount of water in there. His biggest challenge is to make sure the bakers don’t abuse the recipe and put less water in so it’s easier to handle. When it came to scale of the dough, all they needed was one kilo piece. They would have five people for about five hours scaling this and it is very difficult to handle. It then is placed into the baskets that they used, then left in the fridge overnight before they bake it the next day. He’s now obtained a machine, it’s an Italian dividing machine that has incredibly improved this whole dividing process with absolutely no detriment to the dough whatsoever. Everybody hated doing it, because it took so long and they were dealing with a product that was so sticky. That was the nature of the loaf. He’s found this dividing machine that within sort of ten grams divides this dough. You wouldn’t think there would be a machine available to do it, but there is, it’s actually enhanced his products. He’s made it more efficient, because his baker’s could have been 30 or 40 grams out with hand dividing. They were feeling the dough, not meaning to but they were stretching it and doing things with it that they didn’t want to be because it was so sticky. That no longer happens. It’s an indication that a small craft baker has found a piece of equipment that’s made the process not just more efficient, but actually improved the product for it.

Spencer: Yeah, that’s amazing. The other factor is temperature. It’s obviously very critical to the process. But temperature means more than just the oven, right?

Hallam: It does, you have the temperature of the dough, first of all, you want to be keeping that consistently cool. Don’t try and speed it along by keeping it in a hot environment. A hot environment can introduce other faults, it can cause the dough to skin, it won’t actually increase the rate of fermentation that’s going to be fairly consistent by the amount of yeast or let’s say natural yeast, whatever it might be that’s in the dough, putting it into a hot environment isn’t going to radically speed that up at all. It just creates other problems further along the line. But it also just creates instability for the dough because you won’t to be able to handle it. That refers to the bakery itself, they can be pretty warm places. But it’s about the dough and how you protect the dough from its surroundings, you want to be presenting that dough when it goes to the oven in the best possible. Chilling the dough can actually help set it up, because it’s been fermenting for quite a long time. You’ve given its final mold and proof. If it’s been into a warmer place, it will be unstable. The bread should be a little bit chill, I’m not suggesting it be put in a fridge or freezer or anything like that. But certainly giving it time, if you’ve taken your final loaves out of a of approving cabinets and then having them go straight into the oven, you’ll get a very different result. You can almost see them rise. I’ve seen bread rolls for an example, come out of an approver and they’re almost a bit sticky, because there’s been too much steam and the baker has been trying to move it along too quickly. Just by leaving them in the bakery that was naturally cooler from where they were, you just see them set up as they rise. And you will get a much better result once they’re baked.

Spencer: Yeah, I talked to a baker once that told me between the proof box and the oven, they had a conveyor system set up where he just wanted the loaves to take a ride and chill out if you will before they went into the oven. They circled this area of the bakery where they just rode around the perimeter on the conveyor belt so that they could have that rest time.

Hallam: Totally agree, couldn’t agree more. There’s a science behind all of this. Because baking is a science, cooking is an art.

Spencer: I agree with you 100%.

Hallam: Scoop of this and a scoop of that. Whereas baking you have a recipe, there’s a reason that it works and theres the recipe balance and technicality of it. Associated with that is this understanding of temperature. Since we mentioned temperature of the oven is important, that it’s neither too cold or too hot. When put the dough into the oven it is going to rise. This is assuming it’s a good hot oven, bread ovens are at 450 Fahrenheit and if you’re doing pizzas even hotter. Assuming that the dough is in a good condition, when it’s presented to the oven, it will rise. If you’ve injected steam to get a nice bloom and get good crust on the dough that’s done initially, then we might just want to turn the temperature back a little bit. If it is a traditional sourdough, you’ve got to be a lot more careful because it’s a very dense loaf, and the bottom of the loaf will be on the soul of the oven. You need to be controlling your top and bottom heat there. It’s going to need to be in the oven longer. Remember there is a lot of water in that loaf and you need need to bake it out. It is quite interesting with what I would call archetypal traditional sourdoughs. They are very dark in color not because they burn. There’s a richness from all the dextrins and caramelization that’s gone on during the baking. That’s happened during this long fermentation process. Because that is a natural trait and a natural characteristic.

Spencer: Have you ever had a scenario where you’ve been with someone, maybe a consumer, who doesn’t have the level of expertise or expert senses that you have? And you’ve seen someone sort of make an erroneous assumption about a loaf of bread?

Hallam: Yes, simple answer. What I find encouraging nowadays, and this has come to the fore since the pandemic so it’s a positive side of the pandemic, is people are much more attuned to the texture of homemade bread and sourdough because it has gone back to simple ingredients. They’ve not been throwing loads of fat, butter or lard in there to make a softer crumb. They haven’t been putting sugar in there, they’ve just been using the basic three or four ingredients. That naturally gives a different color to the crumb. It’s not bright white, it’s not springy, it’s not particularly soft or resilient. They now have changed their opinion of it. That is how bread should be, and not necessarily what we would call wrapped white sliced. Over here in the UK where it’s something that is very soft and it’s a very close texture, or be seen in a slice loaf. You’re going to get cross panning happening when it’s put into a tense which holt alters the structure of the dough or together which makes it stronger, when it’s sliced, makes it look lighter. On a cut slice, when the light shines on it, there aren’t such deep holes in the crumb that would absorb the light. You’ve got yourselves going from top to bottom of the slice, as opposed to through the center. It’s a characteristic of cross panning that commercial bakeries use unacceptable, totally acceptable to increase the strength of the structure of the crumb, and that relates to the housewife because they’re going to go and spread some butter, Nutella, peanut butter or whatever it might be on it. If the crumble separates from the crust, they will deemed it to be bad bread. The baker doesn’t know what he’s doing. So to increase that the strength across planning is used. But we’ve departed a little bit from temperature, the golden rule with temperature is keep it cool. You get a much more stable dough, all the way through the fermentation process and for molding, proving, baking, etc. If you’re just using cold flour and cold water, I think there’s a principle that you will read in the student baking books that water temperature of a dough should be twice your flour temperature minus a particular factor of the building. But that ends up with quite a warm dough. You’re not in control of it, it’s in control of you.

Spencer: You say keep it cool. I love that because I feel like this is probably an extremely basic observation, but I’ll throw it out there anyway. It’s a really big mistake when you mentioned that people are a little bit obsessed with time and doing things very quickly. The last thing a baker wants to do is bake at higher temperature for a shorter amount of time, right?

Hallam: Oh my goodness, well, you’re not going to get the penetration in there. Absolutely diabolical. If somebody’s doing that, they’re not a baker, are they?

Spencer: Beyond a rookie mistake.

Hallam: Yes. You know, the loaf is baked when it’s baked. That takes as long as it takes and you shouldn’t be trying to influence it by pushing it along and cutting corners here or higher temperature so it to be in five minutes shorter, it won’t be properly baked. I sincerely hope we don’t see loaves like that at the Bread Awards, because it is evident to see.

Spencer: Now when you’re judging, can you experience a loaf when you’re using all of your senses. Can you tell by experiencing the loaf with your senses? This was baked incorrectly, they misused time and temperature. Is that something that you can see through?

Hallam: Yes, is how I would answer that. Because it won’t be a stable crumb. Again, it depends on the category and the other type of loaf. But yes, if it’s all together rushed, and rushing comes by putting loaves of yeast to move it along and using hot water because you’re in a hurry, etc. It’s almost like cotton wall, the crumb. I keep coming back to this word stable, because nothing explains it. And it probably won’t have the flavor either. It’s such a shame because why do you want to do that? You know if this is one of nature’s most natural foods, and has been around since Bible times. Old sourdough was a great expression from the Californian pioneers, what they were doing each day they would always put a piece of the dough into the knapsack and that was the start of the next day. I always had this aroma about them of acidity. Well, that’s because of the lump of sourdough that was in the knapsack on the back. It’s such a shame when you can have such a pure, natural made with passion and emotion certainly from an artist or baker’s point of view, will save 20 minutes here. If you’re not careful, you could gelatinous starch too early. You could be killing yeast off if you’re using, say hot water for goodness sake, need to go to school and earn a little bit of science. And that’ll give you a bit more respect, I hope.

Spencer: Yeah. I think that just kind of reinforces my earlier point, that you can be efficient, you can automate the process for efficiency, if you’re doing it for the right reasons. Not to just shave off a minute here or a minute there, in order to crank out more, you can do more and do it efficiently. If you do it for the right reasons, and maintain those artisans principle..

Hallam: Totally agree. You’re doing this everyday. And in the business, it’s not just about the loaf that you’re making today. It’s about tomorrow, the next day, and the repeat business, and then the reputation you’re getting from that, and the word of mouth. That’s how you custom will grow. No matter how much marketing you could throw at what you do and who you are, and what the businesses is, it comes down to the product. If that’s not living up to what it should be, then the consumers will quickly tell you why by walking elsewhere not buying your product, and rightly so. It’s such a fantastic product is bread, it ticks all the boxes. It’s so nutritious and it’s emotive. It’s made by passionate people just doesn’t deserve to be messed around with.

Spencer: Yeah, absolutely. Stephen, when you think about all of these incredible loaves that you’re going to see during the Tiptree World Bread Awards. I mean, there are 15 categories. You’re gonna kind of see the whole gamut of artisan bread. If you were to talk to a baker who is either a commercial baker looking to create artisan products or an artisan baker looking to scale up what would be two or three pieces of advice regarding time and temperature that they should not let go of.

Hallam: Don’t rush for the sake of rushing, you know, let nature take its course. Always work with a dough. If in a small environment, as a small business, you haven’t got facility to chill your water and then chill the flour, store your flower in a fridge. That’ll give you total control allow you to process it. It’s surprising how easy that is. Just keep a few bags in the fridge and use it straight from the fridge. It’ll give a very different texture to your dough. When you’re mixing it will feel like putty. If you’re adding yeast, you may wonder, did I put the yeast in or not? Incidentally, you know, the quickest way to test whether you’ve put yeast in some dough or not?

Spencer: What is that?

Hallam: We have a golden rule in the bakery, you should never ever speak to somebody that’s weighing down ingredients. They should be left in peace and if anybody goes up to them, they should tell them to clear off. Because you know if you get your ingredients weighed down wrong, you’re not in a good place. Yeast is a classic in the base art, “Oh, did I forget to put yeast?” if you’re working with a cold dough, you won’t be able to tell because it’ll fell inert. You take a little bit of yeast, menthol sweet size bit of dough, and get a little jug and fill it with hot water, then just pop the piece of dough into the hot water and it’ll sink. Then within five seconds or so if yeast is in there, it’ll rise to the surface. If it stays at the bottom of your jug of hot water, there’s no yeast in it. Very quick, incredibly inexpensive way of checking. You think but my advice would be to always work with cold dough. This way you’re in control of the dough and it’s not in control of you, let nature take its time. If you’re able to retard so that you know what you’re making today. You’re going to slowly prove overnight and bake tomorrow. That will give you better flavor and in many people’s eyes and beliefs a much softer crumb as well.

Spencer: Okay, I think the word of the day for me, at least is control. You’ve mentioned it a few times. I love your advice about making sure that the baker is in control of the dough, and that the dough is not in control of the baker. I think that that is an incredible principle to maintain when they’re looking at automation, that they need automation that is going to put the control in their hands, and not in the control of the dough. That’s really good advice.

Hallam: Something always crops up. You might just have to leave the table and go and do something. If you have a dough that is fermenting away, because it’s too warm, it becomes what we call a wooly. It’s then hard to divide and mold, you might have to then further process by pinning it out. Whether you’re doing this by hand or big scale. Note that the same applies all the way along. But if you’re starting with something that’s nice and cool, and inert, it gives you breathing space, you’re in control of it, it’s not in control of you.

Spencer: Okay, I think that’s a really good note to end on for this week. Next week, we are going to take a little bit of a step back in the process. But I did that on purpose, because I think talking about time and temperature was really important to look at fermentation and going into the oven, but there’s something that you have to consider, and that is mixing. Sometimes when you look at where a dough is going wrong, or if a loaf comes out of the oven substandard, you have to go back and look at what happened in the bowl. That’s what we’re going to do next week is talk about the principle of mixing in the artisan process and the impact that it can have on that entire process. I’m excited for that.

Hallam: You’re absolutely right Joanie, because you can have the greatest of ingredients, you can have all the controls you like, but if you have not mixed the dough effectively, then you’re going to have problems later on in the processing. Yes, let’s talk about that next week. Looking forward to it!